About the reserve

Smardale

Smardale Nature Reserve comprises three separate nature reserves that collectively occupy a 8km/5mile section of the disused railway line that once ran from Tebay to Darlington. 

Stunning scenery provides a backdrop to this wonderfully varied nature reserve that stretches from Newbiggin-on-Lune almost as far as Kirkby Stephen.

The species-rich grassland attracts a variety of pollinating insects and the industrial archaeology of the railway line adds constant interest.

The steep wooded slopes of Smardale Gill and the enclosed cuttings along the Waitby Link and Waitby Greenriggs contrast with the views of open rolling countryside experienced along the route.

Wildlife highlights

• Smardale Gill is one of the only two sites in England that’s home to the Scotch argus butterfly. The tiny northern brown argus can also be seen here
• Discover a range of unusual plants: bloody crane’s-bill, rock-rose, horseshoe vetch, frog, fragrant and greater butterfly orchid can all be seen in the grassland
• Redstart and pied flycatcher can be seen in summer, whilst green woodpecker, treecreeper, raven and sparrowhawk are resident year round
• In spring - bluebells, primrose and early purple orchid.
• In summer - orchids, bird's eye primrose, melancholy thistle, bloody cranesbill and butterflies. In summer, bird species include redstart, wood warbler and pied flycatcher whilst buzzard, treecreeper and sparrowhawk may be seen all year round.
• In autumn - find fellwort, devil's bit scabious, scotch argus butterflies. Later in autumn and through the winter flocks of birds such as goldfinch, field fare and redwing feeding on the berries.
• At any time look out for red squirrels and roe deer or explore the archaeology and geology.

What makes Smardale Gill so special?

Woodland

Woodland has probably been present in Smardale Gill since the medieval period and as a result a great diversity of plant species can be found here.

In spring you will find bluebells, primroses, wild garlic and many fern species on the woodland floor. Many of the trees are multi stemmed, evidence that coppicing has occurred in the past.

Limestone grassland

The grassland, which has colonised the railway cuttings and embankments, is also very rich in species due to the underlying limestone rock. Unusual plants to look for here include bloody cranesbill, fragrant and butterfly orchid.

Smardale Gill is one of only two sites in England where the Scotch argus butterfly can be seen. Other butterflies include dark green fritillary, common blue, northern brown argus and dingy skipper.

Keeping it special

Non-native tree species, planted in the woodland in the past, are gradually being removed. The grassland areas are managed by late summer/autumn grazing and manual scrub control.

Waitby Link

Heading in the opposite direction from the car park will take you through what's known as the Waitby Link. As well as providing a continuous woodland corridor for wildlife, the Waitby Link is also a fascinating geological time tunnel.

When the railway was built, an impressive cutting was carved through the carboniferous limestone to provide a level track bed, which now provides a rare opportunity to see an assembly of rock types that depict a range of geological processes.

Waitby Link wildlife highlights

• Spot red squirrels feasting on hazelnuts or racing between the trees
• Fragments of species-rich grassland contain fly, common spotted and fragrant orchid; pepper saxifrage occurs near the entrance
• Look out for flocks of fieldfare in the autumn and winter  

Waitby Greenriggs

Beyond the Waitby Link lies Waitby Greenriggs. It occupies a short section of the old Stainmore Railway and the Eden Valley branch line where these two lines converge. Waitby Greenriggs is an absolute treasure, where the cuttings and embankments have developed incredibly diverse grassland flora.

Waitby Greenriggs wildlife highlights

• The display starts in May as bird's-eye primrose comes into bloom.
• Mid to late June is when the show is at its best, as this is when the majority of orchids come into flower. Globeflower, salad burnet, meadow crane's-bill and oxeye daisy can also be seen at this time.
• Twenty species of butterfly can be seen amongst the flowers during the summer.
• In July, look out for the beautiful marsh helleborine, yellow rattle and harebell.
• In August, devil's-bit scabious and the diminutive autumn gentian appear.

Recent history

The Trust first purchased land at Smardale Gill in 1978 and there have been a number of subsequent acquisitions. Waitby Greenriggs was purchased from British Rail in 1987; the Smardale railway line was purchased from British Rail in 1991; and the Waitby Link was purchased in 2017. Smardale Gill Viaduct is owned by the Northern Viaduct Trust.